Finally got around to installing it.

MB3

Well-known member
Got it for Xmas and decided to start getting ready for the season. I hated not being organized, this should do nicely as I only take 2-3 set ups max and they get in the way on a smaller boat. The cockpit is set up with drink holders, rod holders and a tool organizer. Now to deep clean the rig and get ready for a new season.

I know it's blasphemous but I went the whole year without using the gas motor. Should I change the oil anyway? They put gas in it so I'm sure they test fired it but that's it. I'm hoping to get out on Wallenpaupack and Fairview Lakes this year but we mostly do electric lakes. 20230324_183020.jpg
 

troutspinner

Nuts & Bolts Guy
Personally, I would not change the oil but MANY people would disagree with me. The old saying of when in doubt, always do never hurts I suppose but I chuckled a bit when my buddy changed his lower unit oil last week to only see it as green as the day he put it in the previous year.
 

Melvinp

Well-known member
The oil change thing isn’t as big of a deal on motors that have a separate fuel tank.motors that have the tank above the engine can leak gas through the carburetor and into the crank case after longer periods of not being used.fuel injected motors motors with the tank mounted on the motor can also have this issue but usually after several years where the injector tips and seals start to wear.As for the drive water intrusion can destroy a drive so at least cracking the drain to make sure no water is in there isn’t a bad idea.Water is heavier than oil and will settle at the bottom so just cracking the drain plug to see if you have any issues isn’t such a bad idea if no water you’re good to go.Engine oil smell it it will smell like gas or be over full when you check it.
 

Solitario Lupo

Moderator
Just the plain oil don’t think you would have to do it with in a couple years. Mixing oil with gas should not let that sit in there. Should run it dry. For long periods especially. Some years I don’t use it I’ll start it up get a trash can fill it with water.
 
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troutspinner

Nuts & Bolts Guy
BTW, that chair looks comfy as heck. One day I’m sure I’ll get tired of standing and that one will be on my list.
 
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MB3

Well-known member
BTW, that chair looks comfy as heck. One day I’m sure I’ll get tired of standing and that one will be on my list.
It's nice honestly. We used the kayaks twice last year. It wrecks my back. I kick myself because there were 2 options for boats when I bought this one. I should have went a little bigger but the bow is set up perfectly for long days on the water.
 

MB3

Well-known member
Some reason I have no desire for a seat on the top deck
We rarely ever anchor up or troll. I spent years in the back of the boating working the motor. Having a seat and a foot control is a game changer for me.
 

Gremcat

Well-known member
The oil change thing isn’t as big of a deal on motors that have a separate fuel tank.motors that have the tank above the engine can leak gas through the carburetor and into the crank case after longer periods of not being used.fuel injected motors motors with the tank mounted on the motor can also have this issue but usually after several years where the injector tips and seals start to wear.As for the drive water intrusion can destroy a drive so at least cracking the drain to make sure no water is in there isn’t a bad idea.Water is heavier than oil and will settle at the bottom so just cracking the drain plug to see if you have any issues isn’t such a bad idea if no water you’re good to go.Engine oil smell it it will smell like gas or be over full when you check it.
Melvin is the man when it comes to this stuff. There was a very esoteric white paper on oil science and I went DEEP into the weeds on it. Freezing temps are the worst thing for motor oil not use. Modern synthetic detergent blends less so. The author was a senior Chemist retired from Exxon or something. Cliff notes, if it’s not under warranty he’d never change his vehicle oil. To maintain warranty was his only reason.

I was interested due to my 7.3 using 16.5 qts Rotella and hearing 3500 miles even if synthetic. Some sent their oil samples to Blackstone or a similar lab but to me so many variables change in motors on a low mileage vehicle it seemed the results were a snapshot not the forever results the drivers expected.

With boat motors and oil injection or other motor styles I’d change in spring as cheap insurance for warranty. I still change oil, air filter, and plugs on all my yard equipment every year even though most of it is hardly used. I might push the tiller or something like that to 2 years but the rest are pretty annual. If I ran all ethanol free, ran my fuel out, etc. then I’d only change oil.
 

Gremcat

Well-known member
On a newer boat motor I’m surprised there isn’t a shorter interval change or two at the beginning. No reason to think this just seems like machining fluids, micro particles, etc. might contaminate oil initially.

Melvins forgotten more than I’ll know on motors. I wouldn’t even the tidbits I remember are accurate 😂
 

Gremcat

Well-known member
Just the plain oil don’t think you would have to do it with in a couple years. Mixing oil with gas should not let that sit in there. Should run it dry. For long periods especially. Some years I don’t use it I’ll start it up get a trash can fill it with water.
I’ve a few 55 gal food barrels if anyone on here needs one for this. They have the small fitting so you’d have to cut it out for a motor but it’s quick with a sawzall. I was experimenting with stabilizing greenhouse temps and bought a bunch. Slowly moving them out and down to a few now.
 

Melvinp

Well-known member
One thing nobody ever thinks about are rodents they can make a mess in a hurry not only do they chew wires and filters but they build nests on top of motors that can overheat the cylinder head and cause things like valve guides to move big issues are lawnmowers with Briggs and Stratton motors with aluminum heads
 

Melvinp

Well-known member
Melvin is the man when it comes to this stuff. There was a very esoteric white paper on oil science and I went DEEP into the weeds on it. Freezing temps are the worst thing for motor oil not use. Modern synthetic detergent blends less so. The author was a senior Chemist retired from Exxon or something. Cliff notes, if it’s not under warranty he’d never change his vehicle oil. To maintain warranty was his only reason.

I was interested due to my 7.3 using 16.5 qts Rotella and hearing 3500 miles even if synthetic. Some sent their oil samples to Blackstone or a similar lab but to me so many variables change in motors on a low mileage vehicle it seemed the results were a snapshot not the forever results the drivers expected.

With boat motors and oil injection or other motor styles I’d change in spring as cheap insurance for warranty. I still change oil, air filter, and plugs on all my yard equipment every year even though most of it is hardly used. I might push the tiller or something like that to 2 years but the rest are pretty annual. If I ran all ethanol free, ran my fuel out, etc. then I’d only change oil.
I gotta ask about the 16.5 most 7.3 Power Stroke motors only take 15 quarts of oil on a normal oil change a completely dry engine can take up to 18+ quarts just wondering how long do you let your motor drain I would think it would take a full day or more to get that extra 1.5 quarts out of it.
 
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